Frankfurt on an early March day. The sunshine invites me to go for a walk, which I do, because my route takes me to the beautiful Villa Merton in the early afternoon, a neo-baroque building from 1925 that now houses the Union International Club Frankfurt and a gourmet restaurant that has held a Michelin star for two decades.

The agency ffk. Public Relations has issued an invitation. For me, this is always a reason to clear my schedule, as these events feature top-class participants and are extremely well organized.
Today’s topic: Reach for Roussillon.
The Conseil Interprofessionnel des Vins du Roussillon (CIVR) took the opportunity to bring 10 producers and their wines to Frankfurt. Moderated and led by Eric Aracil, export manager and vice director of the CIVR, as well as winemaker and oenologist, we first learned interesting facts about the region in a one-hour masterclass, which had certainly remained hidden from many insiders until now.

This was followed by two hours of free tasting to get to know the winemakers and their wines better.

During the dinner that followed, we were able to appreciate René Großfeld’s fine cuisine with five courses, each accompanied by two wines, and discuss the controversial wine selection, which was personally presented by the winemakers sitting at our tables.

It was a diverse pleasure. And a lot of work. That much can be said in advance.

 

Masterclass

Roussillon is located in south-western France, around the capital Perpignan, on the edge of the Pyrenees, sloping down like an amphitheatre to the Mediterranean Sea. Until 1659, the area belonged to Spain. The Dukes of Aragon, who also ruled the Kingdom of Mallorca in the 13th century, incorporated the area and were valuable pioneers of viticulture, which had its roots much earlier in Roman times. This period also saw the cultivation of ‘Vin Doux Naturel’, discovered by Arnau de Vilanova, director of the University of Montpellier and advisor to the Kingdom of Mallorca. Vilanova is also said to have been the first expert to experiment with food pairing. The production of dry wines did not begin until the middle of the 13th century.

The Roussillon is characterised by its diversity of soils and richness of grape varieties.
To use the amphitheatre concept once again: the soils 50% of the vines are old vines, between 50 and 80 years old. A total of 25 grape varieties are cultivated, 17 of which are approved for premium wines. 49% of wine production is carried out by 19 cooperatives. These work with a mixture of traditional cultivation methods and modern technology. Steel tanks, old oak barrels and concrete eggs are used. Most winegrowers have different plots throughout the region and can therefore benefit from the diversity of the soil.

Interesting fact: Roussillon produces 1% of France’s total wine volume, but 75% of the total volume of Vin Doux Naturel.

Vin Doux Naturel

The production of this sweet wine, whether white or red, is unique. It is created through ‘mutage’, which is a process of stopping fermentation by adding 96% neutral alcohol. This preserves the character of the wines. The final alcohol content is no more than 15-17% vol. To produce a sweet wine, the wine must reach 14.5% vol. or have a sugar content of 252g/l in the grapes. There are various methods of producing sweet wine:
Reduction:
Preventing oxygen from entering bottled or filled barrels.
Oxidation:
24 months in barrels or glass demijohns that are not completely filled and are stored outside the cellar.
The wine can take up to 20 years to mature.

 

Tasting in the Masterclass

2023 Orus
Domaine F.Jaubert
AOP Côtes du Roussillon
55% Grenache Blanc, 45% Grenache Gris

Hay, slightly metallic, honey, white fruits and blossoms, acacia, resin, fennel. Very smooth finish, roasted hazelnuts, slightly fresh, very dense and full-bodied.
A lovely introduction to a wine that goes well with poultry and fish with strong sauces.

 

 

2021 Lesqurda
M. Chapoutier – Domaine Bila-Haut
AOP Côtes du Roussillon Villages Lesquerde
Syrah, Grenache Noir, Carignan Noir

Medicinal nose with slate, roses, rum pot, Jamaican pepper. Strong acidity, sour cherry, graphite, pepper, cumin, very pronounced tannin structure.
A wine that needs time and is a discovery with lamb or game stews.

2022 Mas Janeil
Francois Lurton – Mas Janeil
AOP Maury Doux
100% Grenache Noir

Volcanic rock, blueberry, black cherry, mildly spicy, juniper, pepper, graphite, rosemary, garrigue herbs, lush and long with soft tannins.
Good as an aperitif or with chocolate desserts.

2011 Lou Muscat
Château de L’Ou
AOP Muscat de Rivesaltes
100% Muscat à petit grains

Reddish-brown colour, large stained glass windows, aromas of nuts, bread crust, medlar, dried apricot, cardamom, candied fruit, nougat, orange peel. Very long and elegant.
Duck liver pâté and chutneys go well with this wine, as does nut cake with goat’s cream cheese ice cream.

 

Free Tasting

 

To describe the full range here would require a second article. Therefore, I will limit myself to a few wines that I found outstanding, although one could speak of gems among gems here.

The red wines made from Carignan, Grenache, Syrah, and sometimes Mouvédre, Cabernet Franc or Merlot are complex, long and full-bodied, with notes of dark chocolate, espresso and red berries. They are very spicy, often supported by fine acidity with a balanced tannin structure.

The white wines made from Chardonnay or all white Grenache grapes seduce with their lush nose. They are versatile in aromas of yellow fruits, brioche and honey, but always well structured by minerality and delicate acidity.

 

The Vin Doux Naturel are particularly noteworthy. Here, my attention was drawn to the white wines made from Muscat, Macabeu and Grenache blanc, whose aromas of nuts, firn, roasted almonds, honey and Asian spices are unique and go well not only with snacks, pâté and strong cheese, but also with cakes and ice cream. Tasting selection

2023 Blanc Barrique
Domaine Blanc Plume
IGP Côtes Catalanes
100% Chardonnay

Spicy nose, passion fruit, pineapple, almonds, acacia honey, yellow fruits, very balanced and broad with a long finish.
Pairs well with brioche with herb cream, quiche, chicken with herb crust.

2018 Traou de L’ouille
Francois Lurton – Mas Janeil
AOP Côtes du Roussillon
60% Macabeu, 40% Grenache Gris

Spicy notes, firn, roasted nuts, orange peel, grapefruit, lacquer, fresh acidity with good length.
Pairs well with swordfish with herbs, stuffed guinea fowl, hearty casseroles.

2021 100% C
Domaine F.Jaubert
IGP Côtes Catalanes
100% Carignan

Single varietal is not characteristic of the region and therefore does not have AOP status. The wine is magnificent. Spicy notes, plum, violet, Jamaican pepper, black tea, very full-bodied, plum, tobacco with lively tannins, finish of nougat and smoke.
Pairs well with saddle of lamb, game ragout and beef surf & turf.

2021 Compartir
Château de Lou
AOP Côtes du Roussillon Villages
60% Grenache Noir, 30% Syrah, 10% Carignan Noir

Rum pot, plum and nougat open the nose, broad on the palate, pronounced dark chocolate, delicate tannins with great length.
A good accompaniment to lamb ragout or duck with chocolate sauce.

Hors d’Age
Domaine Boucabeille
AOP Rivesaltes Ambré
50% Macabeu, 50% Grenache blanc

Aged for more than five years in barrels and presented in a unique bottle reminiscent of brandy. Firn, roasted almonds, forest honey, orange juice, cumin, amazing freshness, a hint of varnish, acacia honey, very round.
A great wine to accompany cakes and brioche, as well as strong hard cheeses.

This is just a small glimpse into two exciting hours of good conversation during the free tasting with the winemakers.

 

The menu

One
Warm slice of halibut, glazed sweetbread, braised fennel and dried fruit chutney

2024 Papillon
Domaine Torredemer Mangin
IGP Côtes de Catalanes
50% Grenache Gris & Blanc, 50% Macabeu

Fresh, delicate wine with subtle acidity, white flowers, pear and grapefruit.

2022 Love Blanc
Chateau de L’Lou
IGP Côtes de Catalanes
100% Grenache Gris

Lactic start with a hint of firn, kumquats, almonds, flowers, ice candy, medium acidity, ripe pear.

 

Raw fennel marinated in citrus and roasted fennel dominate the dish. The roasted fennel balances the acidity of the second wine nicely. The first wine is an excellent accompaniment here. The halibut is divine, the glazed sweetbreads a good counterpoint. Chutney provides balance.

 

 

Two
Grilled spring chicken breast, chicory, roasted goose liver, vanilla carrots

2024 Les Orris blanc
Domaine Boucabeille
AOP Côtes du Roussillon
70% Grenache, 10% Grenache Gris, 20% Roussanne

Herbal nose, mango, pineapple, passion fruit, nutmeg, sea salt, very smooth.

2021 Occultum Lapidem
M. Chapoutier – Domaine Bila-Haut
AOP Côtes du Roussillon
Grenache blanc, Grenache Gris, Vermentino (no percentages given)

Slate notes, thyme, rosemary, curry, very cool on the palate, sea salt, kumquats, well-integrated acidity.

 

Here, the strong sauce, with its Asian influence, combined with the fat from the foie gras, was a challenge. The spring chicken was tender, the chicory a good counterpoint, but the carrots were somewhat lost.
Wine Two pairs very well with the foie gras. Wine One is the better match overall.

 

 

Three
Handkäs ravioli, onion broth, Swiss chard, bacon, beetroot, radish and apple

2023 Le Cadet
Château Lauriga
AOP Côtes du Roussillon
70% Syrah, 20% Carignan Noir, 10% Grenache Noir

Nose of eucalyptus, cherry, graphite, sweet cherry, green pepper on the palate, nutmeg, cocoa, very smooth and long.

2021 Pic Noir
Domaine Blanc Plume
IGP Côtes Catalanes
100% Syrah

Currant, very spicy with pepper, garrigue herbs, cocoa, espresso, fresh acidity in the finish.

 

The ravioli is divine. The gentle melt of the cheese is counterbalanced by caraway. The broth is very gentle. Radish and bacon provide counterpoints. The apple adds a little kick of freshness.
Both wines accompany very well with their texture, spicy aromas and balanced acidity.

 

 

 

Four
Pink roasted saddle of venison, savoury curd dumplings, wild mushrooms, elderberry jus

2022 L’Astre Noir
Chateau Montana
AOP Côtes du Roussillon Villages Les Aspres
55% Grenache Noir, 30% Syrah, 15% Carignan

Cool nose with grass at the beginning, chocolate, sweet cherry, nutmeg, very soft tannins, long and smooth.

2019 Le Pas de La Mule
Francois Lurton – Mas Janeil
AOP Côtes du Roussillon Villages
71% Grenache, 15% Syrah, 15% Mourvèdre

Eucalyptus, cherry, nuts, coffee powder, plum compote, green nuts, blackberry jelly, balanced tannin structure.

 

First, the cuisine must be praised. There was plenty of the excellent jus in a small jug. The dish is outstanding in its components, the saddle of venison extremely tender.
The wines, with soft tannins and a wide range of aromas, are both a perfect match.

 

 

 

Five
Namelaka made from dark chocolate, chocolate wafer, pickled sour cherries, caramelised sesame seeds

2019 Erakis
Domaine F.Jaubert
AOP Rivesaltes Tuilé
100% Grenache Noir

Black cherry, dark chocolate, roasted hazelnuts, raisins, very strong.

Maury Centenaire
Les Vignerons de Maury
AOP Maury Doux Tuilé
100% Grenache Noir

Iodine, rock candy, black tea, dark chocolate, lots of firn, sweet finish with cherry acidity.

 

In addition to the cream, there was a kind of lemon cake and a cherry sorbet. A very successful conclusion with many components. However, it would have been exciting to taste a white Rivesaltes with it. The raisin-like reds had a hard time with the sorbet.

 

Roussillon. Masterclass and starred dinner.
A very successful experience

 

My thanks go to the ffk. Public Relations agency for organising such a wonderful event.

My respect goes to the highly competent team at Villa Merton. The service was perfect at all times.

Thanks to the Conseil Interprofessionnel des Vins du Roussillon for the opportunity to embark on a journey of discovery and culinary delights in the region.

 

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